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Lark

October 19th, 2007 · No Comments

Lark
We found this place on (as usual) chowhound.com and it sounded like a place not to miss while in Seattle. It was opened by a local chef, John Sundstrom who had achieved quite a popular local following working in other notable Seattle restaurants such as Campagne and Dahlia Lounge.

Knowing that Lark didn’t take reservations, we decided to head there to try for the second seating (around 8pm) and got our names on the waiting list. Unfortunately, between it being a busy night and them not being able to find us next door at Licorous (I swear, we were just sitting at the bar with our backs to the door), I don’t think we sat until about 9:30pm.

Like all good things, Lark was worth waiting for. Great, quiet, almost rustic decor – simple, allowing you to enjoy on the food. The service was excellent, and the waitstaff knowledgeable, efficient, and polite.

The only thing I would avoid at Lark would be the foie gras – and I’m going to go off on a tangent here for a minute. I’m not sure why people would serve foie gras hot. Foie gras itself is fatty (gras) goose (foie) liver that has briefly been cooked so that you’re not just eating raw fatty liver. Cooking it further to serve it hot or warm melts the fat, denatures the proteins in the liver that give it taste, reduces its size and gives it a jelly-like texture. If it’s good foie gras, just serve it to me cold with some good bread and maybe a fig or a truffle.

I hate to pull out the big guns, but as Thomas Keller (my hero) puts it, “Foie gras is something that should be left alone. It should be minimally garnished. You eat it because you like the taste and feel of foie gras. Foie gras on toast is perfect…Foie gras is best served cold and barely cooked. Cold, it has much more body and character to it and shows off its rich creamy texture.”

Back to business: other than the foie gras, everything at Lark was great. Loved it. Go there, take a date or someone else you love and just have fun.

D: Tasty food. Cheese menu at the end – tried 3 of 12 with the house crackers – excellent – really liked the Pau. Everything was tasty – including their version of a Caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes and amazing cheese. The black cod was excellent as well. The seasonal menu changes fairly often but I am sure it likely all quite delicious. Our least favorite was the foie gras, which was still pretty good. They have several wines by the glass – all relatively reasonably priced. It is sort of out of the way but definitely worth the trek and the wait since they don’t take reservations. Just sign up and come planning to wait while having a delightful drink next door – the hostess comes and gets you when your table is ready.

Lark Restaurant
926 12th Ave
Seattle, WA 98122
Phone:  206-323-5275
www.larkseattle.com


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Tags: Seattle

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