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Cumaná, Buenos Aires

April 2nd, 2009 · No Comments

CIMG5999 CIMG5997 CIMG5995 CIMG6000 We found this place from reading both the Time-Out guide for BA and the Lonely Planet City Guide – hardly two sources authoritative on all things for Bon Vivants, but we were in need of lunch and thought we’d give it a try.

And yes, were were (again) pleasantly surprised. Cumaná is famous for its adobe-style brick oven, which according to the tour guides means you’ll wait for your’e food (they’re wrong, we didn’t), but it will be worth the wait.

And yes it was. Again, we tried the empanadas – we had the jamon y queso, lomo, lomo picante, and queso y cebolla (ham and cheese, meat, spicy meat, and cheese and onion) – and they were delicious. Not 1810 delicious (see above), but pretty darn good. D had the locra, a regional white-bean stew that stuck to our ribs, and was served piping-hot and was delicious. Thick but not “eat with a fork” thick, it had chorizo, hunks of meat in it, and a smoky complexity of flavours that belied how long it had been cooking for. This was the real deal, and cold day, hot day, any day I’d have some of this stew.

Bottom line: Cheap, fast, cool, super, super-casual décor, with friendly service. Busy with locals – always a good sign. I’d eat here any time for lunch, and I’d eat here any time for lunch or dinner if budget is an issue. Hell, maybe I’d just eat here any time.

Great, cheap food and fun, funky décor. Great if you’re in Recloleta and in need of some delicious local food.
Rodríguez Peña 1149 – Ciudad de Buenos Aires
Tel: 4813-9207

Tags: Argentina · Buenos Aires · Cheap Eats

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